Plates review: My honest thoughts after 2 visits

Last updated: October 9, 2024

If you can get your hands on a table reservation at Plates, then I urge you to go. This is a sensational foodie experience, that just so happens to be vegan. Read my review to find out more.

5 out of 5

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It isn’t every day that a restaurant gets fully booked half a year in advance, and a vegan one at that! But Kirk Haworth, the founder of Plates, recently won the Great British Menu and his brand has deservedly blown up.

Not that I am trying to be that person, but I have been a fan of Kirk’s for years. I visited Plates in one of its temporary homes, hidden in the back of a futuristic cocktail bar in Dalston. The food was sensational, particularly the beetroot ‘steak’ coated in a berry sauce served alongside a whipped horseradish sauce. But it was a Saturday night and the place was near empty.

His new fully booked permanent restaurant located on Old Street is proof that hard work and determination do pay off. His food has always been incredible and he is now getting the attention it deserves!

When I found out about Plate’s new home I attempted to book a table for my family, but the only options were post-February 2025. My FOMO can’t stand waiting that long, so I nabbed myself a solo spot on the Chef’s Counter. This Plates review has been a long time coming, but when I found out about their new permanent home I knew it was time to share my love for their food!

Outside Plates restaurant in London which I visited for this Plates review
The Plates restaurant is nestled inside this cute venue on Old Street, London

My experience

This Plates review will be detailing my experience at their new venue on Old Street. I ate there in August 2024 and as they use seasonal produce, the menu may change slightly if you decide to book yourself a table in the future.

I will also be drawing upon my experience of eating at Plates in 2022, when it was located in Dalston. Since eating there the first time, it became my all-time favourite vegan fine dining restaurant in London. My more recent experience at their Old Street has only further cemented this. Now, let me take you through my thoughts on the food, drinks, service, and the ambience of the restuarant.

The food

I opted for the full 8 course tasting menu (they also have a slightly smaller 7 course menu) and I was very excited to see that it included a few of the dishes that Kirk created for his time on Great British Menu, including the barbequed mushroom, lasagna, herbasceous ice cream, and the raw caco gateaux.

Having watched the judges eat this on the show, I had been dying to try these dishes. And they truly did not disappoint. In fact, two of these dishes were my favourites of the whole meal.

That being said, each dish brought something unique and different to the menu. I enjoyed the light and refreshing snacks at the start, with a truffle that oozed liquid into my mouth upon biting into it. I was totally in awe of the second dish, a salad of tomatoes, house ricotta (vegan ofc), raspberry jam, frozen strawberry and shiso. I had no idea how this would turn out but the balance of sweet and savoury was spot on!

I am a sucker for bread, especially buttered bread. So the house laminated sourdough with whipped spirulina butter was a real treat. There was just enough spirulina in there for it to create an earthy flavour, without it tasting like spirulina.

Then came the dish that I still dream of, barbequed maitake mushroom with a black bean mole, kimchi, aioli and puffed rice. It was a real mix of cuisines, taking influence from Mexico and using flavours and ingredients from Asia. The mushroom melted in my mouth and the kimchi had just the right amount of tang that complimented the creaminess of the rest of the dish.

The lasagna main came out and it smelt divine, with the miso and chive sauce having been just poured over it. I typically don’t enjoy main courses on tasting menus, I find they are usually overthought and overdone, but this one was delicious. The lasagna filling wasn’t too disimilar to one I’d cook myself, but I’ll let them off for that wonderful sauce on top.

The herbaceous ice cream got mixed feedback on Great British Menu, but I thought it was incredible. It was another dish that challenged your tastebuds, with the use of a savoury ice cream and some sweet notes from the beets and mulberries. I thought it worked perfectly as a palate cleanser for the dessert.

The first dessert wasn’t particularly sweet, but had some great flavours from the fruit and grated truffle. It was light enough to be enjoyed before the last dish, the raw cacao gateaux (the dish that one him Great British Menu), which was intensely rich and indulgent. It was the perfect way to end the meal.

It was great to see they were championing a lot of seasonal UK produce whilst still showcasing flavours and spices from around the world. There truly wasn’t a dull moment!

You may also be interested in: My favourite vegan food spots in London Arrow for MyVeganTravels blog

The Plates menu next to my glass of natural orange wine from their drinks list for this Plates review
Their wine list includes a few natural wines – my favourite!

The drinks

I usually like to enjoy a tasting menu with the drinks pairing but since I visited at lunch I decided it was best not to unleash my drunken self on the people of Shoreditch in the middle of the afternoon. Instead, I ordered from their wine list which featured loads of beautiful wines, including a natural orange wine which was delicious!

They also have a selection of tasty look cocktails and a few beers and ciders. On top of this, they offer a selection of alcohol-free drinks.

What I was particularly impressed by was the fact that they have devised a whole alcohol-free pairing to go alongside their tasting menu. Meaning if you don’t drink alcohol, you can still experience the mastery of their amazing sommelier!

The staff also kept me topped up with filtered water throughout, for a small additional fee on the bill.

A view inside the kitchen at Plates, from my seat at the Chef's Counter, for my Plates review
The Chef’s Counter seat has a great view into the bar and open kitchen

The service

The first thing I noticed upon entering Plates was how small and intimate the space was. With the wrong staff it could become quite chaotic, but thankfully, I found the whole service to run seamlessly. Unlike other vegan fine dining venues I’ve eaten at, like Studio Gauthier, which just felt messy.

All of the staff members were just the right amount of friendly. Meaning, they made conversation and talked about the dishes and the drinks, but did not interrupt your meal. They were all very knowledgeable on the food and it felt like they were passionate about the dishes they were serving up.

From my seat at the Chef’s Counter, I thoroughly enjoyed watching the chefs working their way through a busy service with ease. The sous chef was careful and considerate in his plating and it was a joy to watch.

All my dishes came out at a good time, with a small break inbetween each for sipping on my wine and watching the restaurant in full flow. I believe there is a science to timing tasting menus, too short breaks and you don’t get time to enjoy the experience and too long breaks and you start getting full way before the end. This was just right!

Inside the intimate Plates restaurants with a few tables, from my seat at the Chef's Counter for this Plates review
The dining space is intimate, rustic, and warm

The ambience

Plates felt sophisticated without being stuffy. The space was light and airy, whilst still being cosy and intimate. I loved the earthy decor, it felt truly unique and different from the usual fine dining spaces.

I went for lunch and it had a chilled out atmosphere, helped massively by the seamless service. I’d love to also see it in the evening, as the space gives off very rustic and romantic vibes. It is the kind of space I can imagine enjoying lunch in with friends, but also an intimate restaurant for a date night.

They also have a lovely outdoors space, which I imagine won’t be used much for the timebeing, until spring or summer next year.

Visit Plates

If you are thinking of visiting Plates, then here are all of their details:

Did you know that Kirk Haworth also has an online vegan cooking class where he teaches you how to make your own fine dining spread? Check it out here.

Reader supported 🙏

I don’t cover my website with adverts because I want you to enjoy your time here! However, this post may contain links to products and services I genuinely like. If you make a purchase through these links I may earn a small commission (at no cost to you) which keeps this website alive, and me fed!

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